Question: I understand that both Japanese barberry and the invasive Japanese honeysuckle have been shown to promote the spread of ticks and Lyme disease. My husband and I are considering planting the native northern bush honeysuckle. Is this plant just as likely to spread ticks and Lyme disease?
Answer: Barberry (Berberis thunbergii) and honeysuckle (Lonicera) both grow quickly, causing these invasive plants to grow in dense clusters. Deer do not eat these plants, so these plants continue to spread and push out nearby plants. This dense cover creates an ideal microclimate for ticks, allowing them to be active for longer periods each day. Studies have found that ticks living in these areas have a higher incidence of carrying the bacteria that causes Lyme disease. So the problem is not the plants, but how these plants are able to grow and spread, creating a tick-friendly environment. Sorry for the long response to your question. Adding northern bush honeysuckle (Diervilla) to your garden will not pose a threat like barberry or honeysuckle. It is a great native plant that produces summer flowers that attract butterflies and other pollinators, produces seeds for songbirds, and is shade tolerant.
Q: My raspberry plants seem to be growing and spreading, but once they start to produce fruit they dry out. What's going on and is there anything I can do to prevent this problem?
A: Proper watering, weed control and pruning can help reduce the risk of dry fruit. The hot, dry weather of the past few years has taken a toll on many plants. Mulching the soil with leaves and other organic matter helps keep the roots cool and moist. Proper pruning removes old, crowded stems, allowing for more air circulation and light penetration, allowing for better fruit production. Proper pruning also reduces the risk of diseases such as anthracnose and thorn blight, and is a good way to manage small infections. These diseases can cause discoloration and ulcers on the stems, resulting in dry, crumbling fruit. Prune stems at least 4 to 6 inches below the ulcers, dispose of diseased stems, and disinfect tools with a 70% alcohol solution for at least 30 seconds between cuts.
Q: Every year I get small holes in my beet leaves. What causes this and how can I prevent this from happening?
A: The most likely culprit is flea beetles. Early in the season, they feed on cabbages, beets, potatoes and eggplants. Remove weeds that provide food for these pests and clear away plant debris that will provide protected winter homes. Plant susceptible vegetables as late as possible when the soil and air are warmer, encouraging more vigorous growth that will better withstand flea beetle attacks. Consider covering susceptible plants with floating row covers at planting time. This spun fabric allows air, light and water through, traps heat and protects seeds and seedlings from birds and leaf-eating flea beetles. Remove the covers when plants that need pollination to set fruit begin to flower.
This article originally appeared in the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: How to keep raspberries from drying out and other gardening questions answered
