This week we're looking back at our plant winners and losers. I sowed sun-loving perennial and annual seeds in a rocky area on the south side of the house near the foundation. I've been trying to get some plant seedlings in there, but I can't seem to get enough watering or soil amendments. But the seeds took root. Now that I have rooted seedlings, I'm trying to remember to water them. It's working well.
My blanket flower is one of those lucky plants. Blanket flowers (Gaillardia spp) can be perennial, biennial, or annual depending on the species. Encourage them to self-sprout so they bloom every year. I'm almost certain it was in a seed packet, not sure which species it was, but it bloomed last year as well.
I have one red-leafed Beard Tongue (Penstemon) Huskers Red and decided to plant two more in the same spot to create a bolder colony, as I know they will do well here, and all I had to do to add them was remove the goldenrod.
There was a dead nettle (lamium) growing under some dying trees that are due to be cut down soon. I needed to move the lamium and replant it in a similar part shaded spot.
I think digging them up and repotting them now is fine because it allows me to keep an eye on the plants and keep the soil watered. Perennials, whether bought from a nursery or transplanted from the garden, require regular care the first season they are planted in a new location. If I'm only home on the weekends, I don't move my plants.
My Shasta Daisy plant is huge! I only have one. I will wait until September to divide it. It will bloom for a few weeks and then bloom for over a month if I pick off the dead flowers. I will give you detailed “how to” instructions when I divide it.
This large clump of Shasta daisies is 3.5 feet in diameter and about 3.5 feet tall. You may remember the photo of the fungus-spotted leaves from this spring. They're not bothering me. The Lazy Berkshire Gardener cut two large clumps from this one in September and will replant them to enjoy next spring. Stay tuned for photos!
The loser is Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia). I decided to move it again once I found the new best spot. It bloomed in the meantime. This plant needs shade to partial shade, moist, well-drained soil. Even after I moved it last year, it still gets too much afternoon sun. My final attempt will be to move it to a shady spot again this summer. Hopefully it will bounce back after I repot it.
What else is back? Water and heat have arrived this week. The recent morning and afternoon rains have been welcome – they've cut down on watering chores. But this lazy Berkshire gardener might be thinking that's it for watering this week. Alas, not so. The hot sun has quickly dried out the soil in the vegetable patch and shrub borders. We may get a day off once Tropical Storm Beryl has passed, but we'll only get a day off if the heat gets too intense.
Irrigate before plants show signs of heat stress. Continually check the soil around new plantings to make sure it is moist from the last heavy watering. Water needs may vary even among similar plants that are only 3 feet apart from one another. It may sound lazy, but watering is the easiest and least expensive garden care strategy. I avoid a lot of problems by keeping an eye on soil moisture, and I run into a lot of problems when I don't pay attention.
Instead of watering your lawn, consider keeping it dormant. It will turn brown, but will green up again when temperatures drop and regular rains arrive. Not watering will save you money. Also, mowing your lawn at least 3 inches (about twice a week) will help your grass stay greener longer, keep the roots cooler, and keep the soil moist.
With further heavy thunderstorms in the Berkshires over the next few weeks, you'll likely see water running into and out of your garden. That water won't soak into the soil as much as it should. If you have a rainwater tank system, you can store that water and use it for a week. Consider where you can direct your gutters to divert rainwater from your roof into some kind of storage tank. This water can then be used around your containers, vegetable patches or new plantings.
A simple rainwater tank with an overflow pipe to a second rainwater tank can help store water for later during a cloudburst.
Pest and beneficial insects you may see this week:
Fall networms may be active. Cut off and dispose of any branches or twigs covered in netting.
Leave tomato wasps alone if they have a white cocoon on their back. The cocoon comes from a parasitic wasp that will kill the wasp.
If you see a black and red creature about half the size of your pinky fingernail, don't worry: it's a hungry ladybug larva. These goody-goody bugs eat aphids and are your gardening friends.
A lazy Berkshire gardener was delighted to find ladybird larvae searching for aphids among the leaves of his cosmos. Key point: leave these beneficial insects to do their job.
The recent wet weather has caused powdery mildew to appear on my bee balms (Monarda). Bee balms and phlox seem to be the most susceptible to this fungus, which looks like a sticky white powder on the leaf surfaces. I've cut off a few stems from the center of the clump and will be treating them with a fungicide to stop the mildew from spreading to the unaffected leaves. I also cut back some goldenrod stems that were crowding the clump.
It took a bit of research, but this bee balm (Monarda didyma, “Purple Rooster”) has powdery mildew on the leaves. The fungus appears to be mild, but just to be safe, the Lazy Berkshire Gardener would cut the stem and prune surrounding plants to improve air circulation. If the problem was more severe, a fungicide would be used to protect the unaffected leaves.
In the vegetable and herb garden:
Hill up the soil around the onions to keep the stems white.
If I have space, I will grow a second crop of summer squash and cucumbers. I will continue to control pests on the cucumbers.
Dig up potatoes as soon as the leafy stems have died back, using a garden fork or your fingers instead of a shovel to sift the tubers out of the soil.
Lavender stems should be cut and dried while the flowers are still in bud stage, as this will prolong the fragrance and make the flowers easier to hold together.
I'll plant some more carrots, beets and green beans for an early harvest. I'll confess, I haven't planted any beans yet. I usually plant beans after peas, so I'll probably plant them by July 15th, so I have plenty of time to enjoy the beans before the frost hits.
Assess what your plants need in terms of pest control and fertilizer. For seasonal vegetables such as tomatoes, onions, and corn, apply compost or a slow-release fertilizer. If your soil is well-drained and you notice yellowing leaves, nitrogen may be leaching out of the soil. Choose a fertilizer that contains both fast- and slow-release nitrogen.
Remember, it's July! Enjoy the heat. There isn't much heat like it does most of the time of the year. Get up early, do your chores, and take a nap in the middle of the day. This is just how the Lazy Berkshire Gardener likes it.
I call myself a “lazy Berkshire gardener” because I don't like to work too hard in the garden. I want to enjoy it. It's easier to watch my garden and wait for the compost to form, the water to pool, and the daisies to grow. I look for maximum effect with minimum effort. For example, mulching is better than spraying, which is much better than weeding all season. I look for beautiful, low-maintenance plants that will thrive or at least tolerate the conditions in my garden. Plus, I'm prepared to accept the consequences if I miss something.
