Tom Ingram Master Gardener
Regular readers of this column know that we have recently begun discussing integrated pest management, an approach to gardening that attempts to control or minimize pest problems in the yard without relying on pesticides in the first place.
Last week we talked about cultural control, which is something you can do to minimize the chances of pest problems developing. If you have a disease, you can buy seeds or plants that are resistant to the disease. Make sure your plants are planted in a location that meets their sun and moisture requirements. Diligently inspect your plants for signs of disease and insect damage. If you find diseased leaves or pests, you can remove them by hand before they become a big problem. And finally, we talked about how a good layer of mulch can minimize the chances of disease transmission from the soil to the leaves of your plants. Cultural control is always a good first step. So what is the next step, or the next rung up the IPM ladder? Biological control.
Anyone else reading this…
Biological control
Biological control may sound a bit mystical, as if we have some kind of superpower over biology, but it actually means using good bugs to fight bad bugs. Granted, bugs aren't necessarily bad, except for mosquitoes, and even mosquitoes have a place in our ecosystem. But we can certainly use good bugs to control the bad ones.
A good example is using ladybugs to minimize or eliminate an aphid problem. Ladybug larvae and adults love to eat aphids. An adult ladybug can eat 50 or more aphids in a single day. If you notice an aphid problem on your plants, you can purchase a container of ladybugs at most local garden centers. Once you have a ladybug, bring it home and let it out near any aphids you have there. Problem solved! Remember, once the aphid buffet is empty, they will likely leave the garden in search of another all-you-can-eat spot nearby.
If you have ladybugs in your garden, you don't necessarily need to buy ladybugs to get them – just plant a variety of flowering plants. These plants naturally attract a variety of beneficial insects, which not only help pollinate your vegetables, but also help with pest control in your garden.
Another way to promote natural biological control is to create a bird-friendly garden. Adding bird feeders and water stations can attract birds to your yard, but there are other things you can do to naturally attract birds to your yard. Try providing natural hiding places for birds, such as large hollies or similar large dense shrubs.
We have a bird feeder in our yard that is just a few feet away from a big holly bush. Small birds like finches go back and forth between the feeder and the bush while eating. If there is any disturbance, they all hide in the holly bush for safety. So it's a good idea to provide some hiding places.
Why do you want birds in your yard? Because birds will eat a variety of insects, especially juicy and tasty caterpillars, if they get the chance. For example, I've read that a baby black-capped chickadee will eat 350 to 500 caterpillars a day. With that amount of feeding behavior, the number of caterpillars eating your cabbage will soon be significantly reduced. Problem solved, baby birds are fed.
Biological controls can also help minimize damage caused by the dreaded tomato wasp. The tomato wasp inflicts damage on tomato plants pretty quickly. It often goes unnoticed at first, but once a few leaves start to peel off, a quick look at the plant will likely reveal a tomato wasp or two having eaten them. One way is to physically remove them from the plant and dispose of them. But there's a smaller wasp that's much more effective. The one I'm talking about is the braconid wasp.
Braconid wasps lay their eggs inside the tomato hornworm larvae. When the eggs hatch, they feed on the inside of the larvae. When the time is right, the larvae emerge from the larvae and create a cocoon within which they develop. If you come across one of these, you might be tempted to remove this magnificent larva and throw it in the trash. But leave it alone. This larva only has a short lifespan and serves as a host for tiny braconid wasps that seek out and eat other tomato hornworms. An example of biological control at its best.
Now that we've covered the first two steps of IPM, we'll move on to the remaining strategies next Tuesday. See you in the garden!
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To get answers to all your gardening questions, call the Tulsa Master Gardeners Helpline at 918-746-3701, visit the Diagnostic Center at 4116 E. 15th St., or email us at mg@tulsamastergardeners.org.
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